Weekend

On Saturday Ross and I did useful things. Bought plumbing material (copper is very expensive). Ran three miles. Had a delicious martini and went to see "Wall-E". Brilliant movie. Pixar, I worship at your feet. This movie choked me up, not only because of the wonderful and often poignant storyline, but also in a meta- way because the WHOLE thing is so amazingly good, every single aspect of it so superb that I cry at the idea of so many talented people coming together and creating something of such beauty.

Sunday. Leisurely morning of blueberry pancakes and bacon, and then I went climbing at Taylors Falls with Shawn while Ross stayed home and did plumbing. In a quest to meet up with Alicia and others Shawn and I parked on the MN side, walked to the strip, walked across the bridge to WI, walked past the WI strip and downriver eventually ending up at the Sentinel Area. Shawn led Lost Ego (5.8) and I followed. Then he led Sentinel Crack (5.10) and I followed. It felt really good, in control. Then I set up a toprope on Stay Hungry (5.10b) while Shawn talked to this old guy, Steve. Shawn climbed Stay Hungry and placed gear; I belayed and chatted with Steve. Steve climbed his Sentinel variation (with easier finish), and then I climbed it. Alicia and crew showed up. Shawn led (!) Stay Hungry with pre-placed gear.

Alicia and at least one of the guys she was with were talking about leading Sentinel Crack, but they were all occupied so then I geared up and led it! This was one of my goals for the summer (see earlier post), and I climbed it with authority and grace. The first section is more awkward than hard - just a matter of placing gear where necessary and continuing to move up. Then there's a huge rest ledge before the top section - double overhanging cracks. The left crack starts wide, fist jam size, and narrows to hand jam and then fingers. The right crack is good for finger-locks and laybacking. Gets harder and harder until it gets easier. I placed four cams, last one at the crux off a bomber hand jam. Then just pulled through. I felt like a stud.